Friday, May 9, 2025

Lessons





 Some of what I learned on my trip through Spain in no particular order of importance or occurrence.

Siesta is a thing. A good thing. There is something brilliant about scheduling down time every afternoon. We leaned into it. Most places close for a few hours late afternoon. Dinner really is 9 o'clock or later. If you go earlier, you'll be eating alone.

Eat as many olives as you can because they never tasted so good whether briny or buttery or bitter.

 

Don't walk against the crosswalk EVER. You never know when one of these will whiz by.


 
Always take a walking tour of a new city preferably early on in your stay. It is such a great way to get acquainted with a place and usually your guide will have suggestions on what to do and where to eat, and if you're lucky, you'll get a cheeky Brit who is an expert on Madrid's history gossip and all. Lexi's walking tour in Madrid was our favorite.

Make plans and reserves, but be sure to leave time to explore and then also to just be. If we had not done so, we'd never have ended up in the basement of a blues club, and that was a fun night.

 
 

Dine outside when you can. Street seating is excellent for people watching.

Sometimes you can get a table if you walk in even though you cannot get a reserve online especially if you are willing to sit at the bar.

There is no such thing as a bad glass of wine in Spain, or a bad time for one either. Spaniards drink wine, not water.



Or Cava. 

 Forgo fashion. Dress in layers and bring a pair of comfortable walking shoes. You walk everywhere and will wear them 90% of the time.

A cross body bag is a must. I loved the Wander Lust Anti Theft bag. Sunglasses and a travel umbrella too.
 
 


Dress comfortably on planes and trains. It makes it easier to schlep and sleep. I slept on every ride. In fact, I almost slept the entire flight on the way to Spain so long flights no longer scare me.

The fast train is brilliant. We are light years behind Europe in public transportation. It's so easy and affordable.

 

Download a couple movies on a device for travel. Our flight home was without onboard entertainment. Many passengers had to raw dog it. 

We are a baby nation. The sense of history in Europe is captivating. So many countries, monarchies, rulers, sultans have left their marks. I cannot wait to dive in deeper.

There are at least two portraits of The Mona Lisa. One in Spain at the Prado and another at The Louvre. It's questionable whether Da Vinci painted any of them.

They still make espadrilles and I absolutely bought a pair. Leave some room for souvenirs. We ended up buying a carryon suitcase to bring home our purchases. But do not try to bring back jamon Iberico even purchased from the Duty Free store.

Gilipollas means asshole. Don't say it too loudly. Vale means okay.

Location location location. It matters when selecting hotels and apartments. We really lucked out here. Do your research and read reviews. It was fun to do a mix of hotels and an apartment when we were four in Sevilla.

Bidets are amazing. Use them.

Don't bother asking for ice, but you can ask for agua de grifo aka tap water. They must give it to you by law if requested. If you say tap water, they will act like they don't understand you.

The caps smartly stay attached when you open a bottled drink.

The Spaniards love their plazas (pronounced plathas) and so do I. Pigeons too.


 



They also love their dogs. Everyone has one and they are everywhere, but don't pet them. It's considered rude to do so unless you are asked. They are so well-trained that they ignore you. Spanish dogs strongly resemble their owners just like in the states.

 



You aren't supposed to tip in restaurants and bars. At least Spaniards rarely do, but I feel like Americanos are more apt to, and we usually did.

You will have to ask for your check. Don't be offended when the waitstaff ignores you...see above.  

Charge when you can. You get the best exchange rate. We went to the ATM once for more walking around cash. A $300 withdrawal came through our bank account at $390.

The food is so fresh and affordable. The markets are amazing. Spice is not in their culinary repertoire though. We only had two misses on meals, which was remarkable for 10 days of eating out.



 

Eat as much pan con tomate and potatas bravas as you can. They are always different and always delicious.

 


The architecture is beyond: Romanesque and Gothic to Renaissance, Baroque and Modernist, and then there's Antonio Guadi.





You can and will take 1000 pictures even of people you don't know.

 

 


The University of Sevilla was founded in 1505. 

Las Meninas is my new favorite painting. I didn't take a picture of Velasquez's masterpiece because I didn't want to break the rules. The above photo of the Mona Lisa was taken by Lily who broke the rules and btw so many people were, which made me want to refrain from doing so even more. I'm not so much a rule follower as a contration.

From the train you see windmills, fruit trees and windmills as you travel through the countryside. Spain is long on renewables hence the recent power outages.


They do a changing of the guard at the Royal Palace in Madrid. Said palace is an exact replica of Versailles only twice the size because King Felipe V missed his childhood home and was a bit competitive. He was a Bourbon.


The crown is only worn for selfies. It's too heavy to wear every day. Too fancy too.

The royals in Spain are proclamated not consecrated.

My daughter is a beer drinker now. We're on a mission to find Estrella here in the U.S.

I love traveling with Mike and Lils. We make a good trio. I was the event planner, and they shared navigation and concierge tasks. They did a great job of picking a delicious variety of international restaurants when we tired of tapas. Lils was also the translator. Most people speak English. In Barca they speak Catalan and they don't really appreciate touristas practicing their Espanol, since they want to succeed from Spain.


 

 There's not much I would change about this trip. I think we'll find ourselves in Spain again, and definitely in Europe, and with the whole fam.



Wednesday, May 7, 2025

Liminal Space

 

I'm here and I'm there...in between home and away, lingering late winter and sporadic early spring, hibernating and watching buds and shoots multiply each day. This is a hard time of year for me. Hard as in disquieting. I cannot explain it, but it's just the way I'm wired. I thrive in my insularity. The thing is, I'm also wired to celebrate the small things. And there are lots of small things and plenty of large things to celebrate right now.

The house is good and full. Lily is home for the whole summer. Can I get an Alleluia? Teddy will be for at least a good portion of it. It's a gift to get another stretch of time with the four of us under one roof piles of clothes and half full cans of Spindrift and all. Since Lily's return last Thursday, she's been staying close to home where there is a comfy bed, cats, her bike, rice cakes, blueberries, Nespresso and Netflix. Last night Ted came home with a victory on both courts: tennis and basketball. We were in the middle of a movie, but we hit pause so he could give us the recaps. When he does this, I am reminded of little shaver Teddy. From his very first foray into competition eons ago, he has recounted every play, point, at bat, hole and we have to listen. It is my privilege btw.

Yesterday was a windows open sort of day. Mike grilled our favorite bone in, skin on chicken breasts and Lily made her signature sprouts. I have missed those. Dinner was pushing 9 o'clock. Since our return from Spain, we no longer fight it. We had both flavors of the day in the freezer from a stop at Kopps last weekend. Had being the operative word. I see lots of custard in our purview.

Last Saturday Pete got a bowl of Mint Chip instead of a cake. It was a lucky thing his fave was flavor of the day. We did a smash up of  birthday/Cinco de Mayo and KY Derby. Mike made a refreshing tequila Julip and the fajitas were sizzling. Bets and rose bouquets too. I won with Sovereignty. This weekend we'll host Mother's Day/welcome home Lily. I'm thinking brunch, but awaiting inspiration. It will come.


 



Tuesday, April 22, 2025

A Few Words and a Few Photos

 

It's been a minute, or more like a month. I was consumed with planning our trip to Spain. Then I was consumed with fabulous Spain. It was such a meaningful trip. We've been dreaming about visiting for 30 years and to finally get to experience it together with Lily made it special in countless ways. I'm still processing our time spent in Espana. I have hundreds of pictures and dozens of stories of our days and nights spent exploring Madrid, Sevilla and Barcelona. I want to share them all, but I'll pick and choose and soon.

A cute aside...on Easter Sunday Mike cast his pictures on the tv and went through them one by one for the fam. I had to cut him off before he got to Barcelona because I needed him to cut the ham. He's not usually such a sharer. I'm pretty sure that as much as I loved our trip, he loved it more.

Easter was lovely. I enjoyed setting the table with my new favorite duo...a mish mash of my Mikasa and my Grandma's Limoges. Spring gatherings necessitate that I serve in her vintage floral pieces. Roses for Rosie. I opted for a traditional meal instead of brunch, and I kept it simple: Honey Baked Ham, roasted heirloom carrots with the pretty fresh thyme, scalloped potatoes with the best melting Comte cheese and shredded rosemary Asiago for sharpness, a spring pea dish with pancetta and shallots and rolls with the good Irish butter. We served the salad, poured the rose and made a toast before returning to the kitchen to plate the meal. Everyone enjoyed the mix of baby greens, roasted pecans, crispy shallots, berries and panko crusted fried goat cheese in a mustard vinaigrette without the usual log jam that is the flow of our kitchen. This was a game changer for entertaining at Casa Wags.

I didn't take many photos that day or in the days I've been home. I've been happy to be present and definitely needed a break from capturing everything. This has been a common theme as of late. I'm leaning into it. It's a nice change of perspective.

And speaking of  a shift of view...I came back from two weeks away feeling more personal growth than I've had in a long time. Immersing myself in a foreign culture made me feel more comfortable in my own skin. It's not that I just felt better informed, more worldly and more interesting. I felt more myself. Capisce?

I've been known to say, Wherever you go, there you are. I say that cynically as in you cannot escape yourself, but it took on new meaning for me. It seems you can also rediscover yourself. The self that thrived on new connections, experiences and ideas.

I'm not itching to go again right now. If anything, I'm happy to be home, but I'm thinking about where to next and right now I think Portugal sounds about right. I would like to take a whole family trip with parents too. I notice my Dad's ears perk up when I talk about Portugal so while I thought his traveling days were done, this might make him get on an airplane again. I'll keep gently planting the seed.

As far as I can tell, Spaniards enjoy life. They work enough to live and then they live well. They don't accumulate things. They value experiences over possessions, relationships over reputations and I was very much drawn to that. Inspired. Enlightened. I'm just going to bask here in that feeling awhile longer, but I'll be back soon.